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I'm able to make it work. The real ones I've seen don't look so flat.
I fold the smallest petals first, then fold the next size of fabric squares diagonally and glue the tip of those to the bottom of the small petals right behind the point. Then I fold the sides of the triangle around and glue them to the sides of the small petal. They almost reach the end of the small petal, but not quite. The I repeat with the next size, and so on. Once all five petals are done this way, I put them together like any other flower, but I use a domed base. At first I had difficulty lining things up right and maintaining the correct spacing between petal layers, but it became much easier once I got the hang of it. The whole thing was kind of floppy once it was put together, so I sprayed some starch on it before I put the center on, arranged the petals so they didn't wrinkle, and let it dry. I was stupid and ruined quite a bit of good fabric on my first attempts, so you'll probably want to practice on cheap fabric until you get the technique down if you decide to try again.
I wish I could see a real kanzashi artist make these things. Then I'd know whether I am doing it right or not. XD